Kolkata has the oldest metro in India — 1984 — and one of the cheapest fares in the world. It also has a reputation as a difficult city. The second falls apart on day one; the first is the best tool you have for making that happen.
Five lines are in service, but for a visit the one that matters is the blue (Dakshineswar–Kavi Subhash): 26 stations running north to south under almost everything you will want to see. It is the original line, the 1984 one.
The green (Howrah Maidan–Salt Lake Sector V) is the new jewel: it crosses under the Hooghly river, something nobody in India had done, and connects Howrah railway station to the centre in minutes. The yellow reaches the airport.
The rest — purple and orange — serve southern and eastern neighbourhoods and you probably will not use them.
The key point: up on the street it is slow. Kolkata traffic turns four kilometres into forty minutes. Underground, those same four kilometres are eight minutes and thirty rupees. That is the entire difference between a day that works and one that does not.

Kolkata is not looked at, it is walked. These seven are the ones we think explain the city best.
Everything above you can do on your own with this page open. This other thing we build for you: the same idea as always — you do not know what you got until the day before — applied to Kolkata.
You choose where you fly from and where you are going, and we tell you what the adventure costs and roughly what getting there would cost. Flights and accommodation you book yourself: we are not a travel agency and we do not want to be.
The fare goes by distance, in bands, and it is among the cheapest in the world: the longest journey on the network costs less than a coffee in Europe.
Sunday is the day to watch: with the metro starting at ten to ten, the morning is done by taxi or not at all. It is worth rearranging the itinerary around that.
If you want it line by line — which stations each one has, what is around every stop and how to work out a specific journey — we have all of it at our guide to the Kolkata metro. It is one of the sites we publish ourselves, and it is free.
Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose airport has had a metro for a short while: the yellow line, four stations between Noapara and the terminal.
Three full days cover the colonial axis, the northern workshops and temples, and a day of markets and food. With four you fit Dakshineswar and Belur without rushing.
Between ₹5 and ₹30 depending on distance: ₹5 for one or two stations and ₹30 for the longest journeys on the network. It is one of the cheapest metros in the world.
Yes, on the yellow line, which links Noapara with Jai Hind (Airport) station. From Noapara you connect with the blue line into the centre. With bulky luggage or in the small hours the prepaid taxi is still better.
It is one of the large Indian cities with the lowest rate of violent crime and it gives travellers no trouble. The usual applies: watch for scams at temple gates and for taxis without a meter.
September or October, depending on the lunar calendar. It is the city’s great festival and it transforms the place completely: pavilions in every neighbourhood, crowds all night and a metro running extended hours. If your dates coincide, go; if you want calm, avoid it.
This is what we do when we travel. The other thing we do is build adventures where you do not know which activity you got until the day before.